Raf Simons, Fall 2017 Menswear Whether it’s the Statue of Liberty beckoning over the curve in the horizon as your steamer approaches from the east, or a frantic cluster of handwritten “Have you been detained?” posters waiting outside immigration as the automatic doors of JFK whoosh blessedly closed behind you, every outsider’s first arrival… Continue reading Raf Simons, Fall 2017 Menswear, No Fear in New New York.
Vetements, Fall 2017 Menswear, Paris If anyone had Demna Gvasalia down as purely a streetwear revolutionary who shot from nowhere to lead a youth cult, then they’d have been taken aback by the sight of the silver-haired madame in dark glasses, fur coat, and a pencil skirt who stepped off the escalator at the Centre… Continue reading Vetements, Fall 2017 Menswear, Paris
Hood By Air Menswear Spring 2017, Paris Hood By Air makes things difficult. These images were shot days after its Spring 2017 show in Paris, a frenzied cruise in semi-darkness through a gay sauna in a seedy part of the Marais that culminated in a synchronized swim in the hammam’s subterranean pool (don’t think: Busby… Continue reading Hood By Air Menswear Spring 2017, Paris
Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2017, Florence Earlier this year, the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation contacted Raf Simons. They asked if he’d like to work with them on something. He said yes. That’s the shorthand version of the story behind the collection he presented at Pitti Immagine Uomo, perfectly chimed with a duo of Mapplethorpe exhibitions at… Continue reading Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2017, Florence
Gosha Rubchinskiy Menswear Spring 2017, Florence A change of scenery, a change of pace. The menswear designer invited by Pitti Immagine to stage a show in Florence for Spring 2017 is Gosha Rubchinskiy. Moscow born, based, and somewhat obsessed, his collections thus far have unraveled his Soviet identity, nostalgically harking back to the time… Continue reading Gosha Rubchinskiy Menswear Spring 2017 Florence
Tim Coppens Menswear, Spring 2017, New York Remember clubbing? Do people still do that? You know—roll deep, head to some warehouse where the music is so loud it obliterates all reality, and emerge busted at sunrise to face the city you left behind the night before. That kind of clubbing. Tim Coppens remembers those… Continue reading Tim Coppens Menswear, Spring 2017, New York